Tokyo 東京 Espresso エスプレッソ

2011-02-28T14:28:00.010+09:00

Nozy Coffee
>>MAP
2-29-7 Shimouma
(12 min. from Sangenjaya or Ikejiri-ohashi on the Denentoshi Line)
TEL: 03-5787-8748
東京都世田谷区下馬2-29-7
Maybe I'm not done with my search for transcendent espresso in Tokyo. Thanks to reader Luke for bringing Nozy to my attention after his Bear Pond mishap. In what is a strikingly handsome bi-level space, Nozy outshines 99.9% of Tokyo coffee peddlers. Although this relatively new shop (opened in August 2010) might be considered behind the times in adhering to single origin coffee (many now consider this a dated industry fad), one can't fault Nozy for what is clearly a mission in pursuit of coffee excellence. With on-premises roasting and seminars on cupping and food pairing, Nozy really is doing something special for coffee in Tokyo. My espresso was a single origin Dominican with very high acid. I gauged it at almost two ounces of water (and mouthfeel suffered as a result). Although I have experimented with single origin coffee in my own roasting and espresso-making adventures, I am now moving back to the blend as the best way to drink espresso. My Nozy Dominican confirmed this. It was simply too piercingly one-note. It will be interesting to see how Nozy develops in the next few years. Oh, further testament to Nozy's focus on coffee: no food is served.

First Visit: February 27, 2011

2009-09-03T19:52:00.013+09:00

Bear Pond Espresso
>>MAP
2-36-12 Kitazawa
TEL: 03-5454-2486 東京都世田谷区北沢2-36-12
I'm done. The search for transcendent espresso in Tokyo is over. I might just retire this blog. Really. Opened in April 2009 by Katsu Tanaka, Bear Pond simply blows away all Tokyo competition when it comes to espresso. Period. There's quite a back story here. After 18 years in NYC as a certified barista and trainer with Counter Culture and Gimme! Coffee, Tanaka moved back to Tokyo to open his own shop with the help of his wife, Chisa. He walked the neighborhoods and found an old candy shop in Shimokitazawa whose owner wanted out (though she remains his landlady). Why "Bear Pond"? It's a lake in upstate New York for which the Tanakas have a fondness. More importantly, the characteristics of bears (the animal) suit what Tanaka is trying to do in giving Tokyo a taste of true espresso. In other words, his ristretto-type shot (I'm judging my shots were well under an ounce of liquid and Tanaka uses about 20 to 22 grams of beans per shot) is not for everybody. With ursine-like ferocity, Tanaka's shots will bowl you over with everything a "god-shot" (credit to Mark Prince of Coffeegeek) should be. Does Tanaka give a damn that his shots might not be to the tastes of most Tokyoites (who are used to a more watered-down version of espresso)? No. Not a bit. He knows exactly what he's after and doesn't want to compromise: a chocolaty bomb of a shot with hints of spice and salt. He told me, "I'm a bear and my espresso is only for other bears!" Smiling, he went on to say, though, that a bear generally tends to get along quite well with other bears. Tanaka's beans are provided by specialty roaster Nori Yoshimi. Bear Pond has a semi-exclusive relationship with Yoshimi for a reason: Yoshimi only trusts Tanaka and a few other baristas with his beans.

First Visit: September 3, 2009

2009-08-25T16:32:00.009+09:00

Nid Cafe
>>MAP

3-13-23 Aoyama
TEL: 03-5772-7639

東京都港区南青山3-13-23
[UPDATE: Nid Cafe is permanently closed for business.] From the same group responsible for the fetching Eau Cafe in Daikanyama, Nid can be a bit hipper-than-thou at times and the place is something of a smokers' paradise. However, the espresso is often good to very good and the food, like lamb curry, is subtle and a step-up from pedestrian cafe fare.

First visit: August 14, 2009

2009-08-25T16:02:00.010+09:00

Bonnet
>>MAP
1-12-3 Utsukushigaoka, Aoba-ku, Yokohama
Tama Plaza Station
TEL: 045-901-6550
横浜市青葉区美しが丘1-12-3
A bit feminine for my tastes, but Bonnet is a lovely cafe and the owner knows his espresso.

First visit: August 16, 2009

2009-08-25T15:36:00.007+09:00

Zaim Cafe Annex
>>Map
1-51 Ishikawa-cho, Yokohama
TEL: 045-308-8481
横浜市中区石川町１丁目５１
Close to Motomachi and Yokohama Chinatown, Zaim Cafe Annex is perhaps the most comfortable cafe I've found in the Tokyo Metro area. Too bad it's rather inconveniently situated atop a hill overlooking Motomachi. No espresso here but, if you're in the area, this renovated home is an absolute must visit.

First visit: August 23, 2009

2009-08-05T14:56:00.019+09:00

da Gino
>>MAP
1-2-3 Minami-Ebisu
TEL: 03-5723-8877
東京都渋谷区恵比寿南1-2-3
[UPDATE: da Gino is permanently closed for business.] After all the time spent "laboring" in Ebisu, I can't believe I missed da Gino. Thanks to Jeremy S. who brought this two-year old wine and espresso bar to my attention. Is it great espresso? No, not yet. Does it show extraordinary promise? Yes. My single espresso was more akin to a double pour. The barista was well-meaning and admitted to have only just started to really study how to make good espresso. He flushed the Cimbali about 10 minutes prior to my pull and my shot suffered. The result was an over-extracted pour. da Gino's massive Cimbali simply gets the water too hot and a flush is absolutely required prior to each pull. Otherwise, his technique was good (grinding fresh for the shot, swiping the portafilter, etc.). What da Gino also has going for it is the fact that it is roasting and using its own beans (it even sells beans under the "Gino" brand at Kinokuniya).

First visit: August 5, 2009

2009-07-09T14:49:00.015+09:00

Café Landtmann

>>MAP

3-11-7 Kitaaoyama, Minato-ku

Ao Bldg. 4F

東京都港区北青山3-11-7 AOビル4F

TEL: 03-3498-2061

A pantheon to Vienna in Aoyama’s new Ao Building (another new and gleaming shopping mecca opened just in time for the current economic slump). It’s better to stick with the Vienna Coffee or another whipped cream creation as the espresso is a watery insult. My goulash soup (!), salad and bread made for a refreshing lunch and I envied the neighbor’s wiener schnitzel.

2008-10-26T08:30:00.015+09:00

Eataly Japan
>>MAP

20-23 Daikanyama-cho, Shibuya-ku
TEL: 03-5784-2736
東京都渋谷区代官山町20-23

I must confess to serious mixed feelings about this place. (Thank you to Daniel N. for his tip.) It's one part Disney, two parts mall food court plopped down ungraciously in Daikanyama, one of Tokyo's trendiest shopping districts. Its lofty mission is to provide Tokyo with an Italian wine and food center. The result? Gobs of people wandering confusedly from market to cafe to wine bar to deli counter and tons of staff members (all of whom seem to be going on break or just coming off break). Not a relaxing experience in the least. That being said, the deli products on offer (San Marzano tomatoes, great selection of salami, prosciutto, pancetta, fresh pasta and mozzarella, etc.), bakery, and pizzeria are a welcome addition here. The espresso? Um . . . no. The barista, an Italian fellow (but that's irrelevant), didn't grind fresh the entire 60 minutes I sat in front of him. Only when I stood up to leave, did he grind (and only to fill the doser again). (This felt like a giant f*** you.) Eataly, shame on it, is also using imported, roasted-abroad beans. See my rant here re this act of insanity.

2008-08-20T18:05:00.009+09:00

Shichimencho Café
>>MAP

5-16-1 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku
TEL: 03-5467-3939
東京都港区南青山5-16-1青山ビル2F
So there's no espresso and the coffee sucks. Okay, but Shichimencho serves a mean green curry and is such a refreshingly real and relaxing cafe/bar amidst uptight Omotesando spots that this place should be on everybody's list. The owner has over 1500 LPs and keeps the music loud.

2008-08-20T16:45:00.011+09:00

Lili Marleen
>>MAP

2-8-2 Jiyugaoka, Meguro-ku
TEL: 03-3724-0319
東京都目黒区自由が丘2-8-2

A quirky but ultimately winsome new café in Jiyugaoka’s dated “Little Venice.” The owner is a charming woman with some connection to Germany (I didn’t ask). The menu is full of sausages and pretzels and she has two beers on tap (one from Germany I failed to recognize and the other brewed in German style by a microbrewer here in Japan). The espresso beans are imported courtesy of LaVazza and the quality suffers as a result. Click here for my rant on the senselessness of importing roasted beans. However, I get the feeling that the owner is getting to know her espresso machine, a gorgeous Carimali Kicco 1, and there are worse shots being pulled in Tokyo. My advice: skip the espresso for now and have a beer on the patio by the “canal.”

2008-08-20T11:50:00.012+09:00

deborah

>>MAP

2-6-6 Sangenjaya, Setagaya-ku

TEL: 03-3422-2653

東京都世田谷区三軒茶屋2-6-6 井筒屋ビル　

Another hipper-than-thou Tokyo café with the exception that espresso is passable here.

2008-08-20T11:18:00.009+09:00

Unice
>>MAP

1-34-17 Ebisu-nishi, Shibuya-ku
Za HOUSE Bldg. B1
TEL: 03-5459-8631
東京都渋谷区恵比寿西1-34-17 Za HOUSE ビルB1
Sure, the place stays open until 5:00 a.m., but with espresso that's pure drek, it makes no difference. The cafe's perpetually smoky too.

2008-08-12T16:42:00.013+09:00

Verde

>>MAP

1-20-8 Ebisu-nishi, Shibuya-ku

TEL: 03-3496-1692

東京都渋谷区恵比寿西1-20-8

Not for the dilettante, Verde is an Old School Tokyo cafe presided over by a master who has exacting standards when it comes to the right pour. To give you an idea: he used to sell his homemade and custom-designed (for optimal drip) burlap filter (pictured above) to customers. But, after learning that users weren't cleaning the filter properly, he ceased all sales! Don't be afraid, he's a convivial man who will wax poetic on coffee and its current state if prodded. Warning: no espresso here so don't even ask!

2008-08-12T16:10:00.007+09:00

Café Delight
>>MAP
1-24-12, Ebisu, Shibuya-ku,
東京都渋谷区恵比寿1-24-12
TEL: 03-3444-1818
Excellent bar/restaurant with a deft hand at food and mixed drinks (had the best-tasting vodka tonic, or, I should say, tonics, in many a moon). Espresso is only slightly better than marginal (which is sad because Cafe Delight has all the right tools: grinder, two-group machine, etc.).

2008-08-06T18:17:00.022+09:00

Pelle’s Espresso

>>MAP

3-1-4 Kanda, Ogawa-cho, Chiyoda-ku

TEL: 03-5283-0332

千代田区神田小川町3-1-4

[UPDATE: Pelle's is permanently closed for business. Its last day was on August 25, 2009. According to the manager, there are no current plans to reopen.] I’m enamored of this place. It’s espresso in Tokyo by way of Melbourne, Australia. The owner is Japanese and splits his time between the two cities. A gorgeous Faema Legend E61 is the shop’s pride and joy and it’s easy to see why. Faema re-introduced this machine in 2001 (it first came to market in 1961). (See this fascinating article on coffeegeek.com by Paul Pratt documenting his own efforts to restore a Faema.) Pelle’s beans are roasted by a father of one of the employees. His espresso blend, although largely a secret, consists largely of some Brazil and Sumatra Mandheling. (That’s as much info as I could get!) The staff is a gregarious bunch and matches macchinesti’s seriousness when it comes to espresso.

Updated: August 25, 2009

2008-08-05T18:07:00.011+09:00

Ura
>>MAP
1-17-1 Ebisu-Nishi, Shibuya-ku
TEL: 03-5489-1117
東京都渋谷区恵比寿西1-17-1
A gorgeous Brasilia espresso machine sits behind the bar and it's put to expert use. Beans are ground fresh for each order. This is an extremely proficient operation with food and espresso at a very high level. It's also something of the gaijin scene for weekend brunch (but not obnoxiously so).

2008-08-04T16:12:00.006+09:00

Analog

>>MAP

1-8-3 4F Ebisu-Minami, Shibuya-ku

TEL: 03-3760-0955

渋谷区恵比寿南1-8-3 4F

There is nothing to recommend on the espresso front here. Analog relies on a super-automatic machine and results are predictably disappointing. However, there is much to recommend about the café in terms of atmosphere and vibe. It’s a unique space if you can tolerate the cigarette smoke and the hand-job parlor two floors below.

2008-07-23T12:15:00.018+09:00

Fukunchu Organic
>>MAP

1-50-3 Kita-senzoku, Ota-ku
大田区北千束1-50-3
UPDATE: THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED. In a charming converted home just minutes from Ookayama station on the Meguro line, Fukunchu is a rarity. It’s an organic (whether 100% or not is unclear) vegetarian restaurant that’s only open for lunch. Be warned, only 20 or so meals are prepared a day. I’m partial to this place because I’ve gotten to know the owners through their organic grocery, Rinya (also in Ookayama). On my first visit, I was shocked by the volume and price. For 1000 yen, I had a refreshing gazpacho, grilled vegetables, great bread from nearby Itokito bakery, salad, and banana cake for dessert (not to mention iced coffee). An added bonus is a visit by Fuku-chan, the owners' baby boy.

2008-07-23T12:06:00.009+09:00

Café Pause

>>MAP

2-14-12 Minami-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku

TEL: 03-5950-6117
東京都豊島区南池袋2-14-12

One of the few cafes in Tokyo with free Wi-Fi, Café Pause is a very able café. Though the crema on the espresso was a tad blond for my taste, the beans were ground to order and the taste was sweet. The food menu is lacking, however.

2008-07-23T11:58:00.012+09:00

Markt Café

>>MAP

1-17-16 Tamagawa

Setagaya-ku

TEL: 03-3708-7723

東京都世田谷区玉川1-17-16

A lovely café/antique shop close to Futako-tamagawa, Markt Café’s strong suit is food. Just look at the preparation on that smoked salmon! Espresso was fair—and only offered as a double.

2008-07-22T18:32:00.015+09:00

Fermata Pizza

>>MAP

2-14-2 Jiyugaoka

Meguro-ku

TEL: 03-3718-5084

東京都目黒区自由が丘2-14-2

Absolutely fantastic pizza of the Naples variety! Fermata opened at the beginning of July 2008 and Jiyugaoka is slowly realizing that it has a real find on its hands. Service tends to be slow as pizzas are made one-by-one.

2008-06-22T15:27:00.013+09:00

Double Tall
>>MAP
3-12-24 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku
TEL: 03-5467-7885
東京都渋谷区渋谷3-12-24 シブヤイーストサイド 2F
Tucked away on a Shibuya back street, Double Tall is a real find. Though you may have to put up with a few ne'er-do-wells loitering outside in-between horse races (a betting facility is nearby), don't let that dissuade you from excellent espresso and typical cafe food that is both cheap and good (taco rice, grilled chicken thighs on rice, etc.). I watched the barista as she pulled my shot and everything was done right from flushing the La Marzoca and grinding beans fresh to wiping the basket clean and tamping.

2008-06-01T07:52:00.012+09:00

Tous les Jours
>>MAP
Daikanyama 1-6, Shibuya-ku
TEL: 03-3476-0198
東京都渋谷区代官山町1-6
On the edge of Daikanyama, Tous les Jours is a shoebox of a cafe. Bypass the espresso and walk straight downstairs to the hidden bar.

2008-06-01T07:36:00.012+09:00

Espresso and Bagel Cafe/Stand 300 of Joy
>>MAP
Daikanyama 15-10, Shibuya-ku
TEL: 03-3462-5786
東京都渋谷区代官山町15-10
A bagel and espresso café in the morning, a stand bar at night, this place should stick with the latter. It’s DeLonghi pods all the way here and . . . well . . . we all know what that means.

2008-05-26T11:55:00.025+09:00

Enoteca Bar Primoordine
>>MAP

2-11-20 Higashigaoka, Meguro-ku
TEL: 03-3410-8810
東京都目黒区東が丘2-11-20
Tipped off by friend of Tokyo Espresso Daniel N., Primoordine is one of the few cafes in which you can take your espresso at the counter, “Eye-talian” style. Although I question Primoordine’s use of already-roasted Passalacqua beans imported from Naples (once the bag’s open, the window on freshness closes--and roast dates may certainly exceed two weeks prior to landing in Tokyo), this café is doing espresso right. (Don't get me started on the topic of importing roasted beans. Tokyo has enough experienced roasters that, if you don't want to roast in-house, a cafe here is almost always better served by using a domestic roaster--in terms of freshness and taste--rather than importing already roasted beans. It's nonsense, really.) But back to Primoordine. What's better still is that a single shot at the counter costs 150 yen (as opposed to 250 yen if seated). One is challenged to find a cheaper shot of espresso of the same quality in Tokyo.

2008-05-26T11:26:00.014+09:00

Cubstar
>>MAP
1-4-7 Komazawa, Setagaya-ku
TEL: 03-3418-3534
東京都世田谷区駒沢1-4-7
[UPDATE: Cubstar is permanently closed for business.] The kind of café one wishes were in the neighborhood, Cubstar surprises with its superb espresso. Boasting a Faema E92 Elite 2 Group espresso machine, Cubstar takes its espresso seriously and the results are impressive. Snag one of the two seats on the front porch, take in the lonely commuters walking to and from Komazawa-daigaku station along with Wootan, Cubstar’s resident pooch, and you have yourself a very enjoyable afternoon.

2008-05-19T15:24:00.027+09:00

Deli & Café 5
>>MAP

3-25-17 Den-en-chofu, Ota-ku
TEL: 03-3721-7951
東京都大田区田園調布3-25-17
Den-en-chofu, home to many wealthy expats (it’s one of the few areas in Tokyo where one can get a house AND a yard), is home to this café. Service is stiff and largely ignorant of good espresso. However, if you don’t mind passable espresso from a super-automatic and are looking for a comfortable spot to read or study, I can’t recommend this place enough. The secret is, however, to bypass the first floor and head upstairs to the newly-renovated and lovely loft space. There are two sofas and some comfortable chairs.

2008-05-19T14:53:00.008+09:00

Café Frangipani
>>MAP
6-8-21 Roppongi, Minato-ku
TEL: 03-3478-2966
東京都港区六本木6-8-21

Okay, so the place has a VW Bus smack dab in the middle of the café with seating for two. Unfortunately, this novelty does absolutely nothing to compensate for sub-par espresso. You get the feeling that the staff is simply too cool to care about much of anything except their ‘dos.

2008-04-20T07:20:00.012+09:00

Cafetherapy Diichai
>>MAP
Sangenjaya 1-31-11
Setagaya-ku
TEL: 03-3421-4377
カフェセラピー　ディーチャイ
東京都世田谷区三軒茶屋 1-31-11
A hard-to-find home cafe in the backstreets of Sangenjaya. The building is 45-years old and the owner-chef is extremely friendly. Sure, he's using a DeLonghi super-automatic and the espresso is . . . well . . . vintage DeLonghi (drinkable yet wrong). But one doesn't come here for the espresso. Instead, the atmosphere and food (homemade soups, cabbage rolls, house pickles, etc.) are the draw. Better still, brown rice is on the offer.

2008-04-13T13:58:00.022+09:00

Del Sole
>>MAP
6-8-14 Roppongi, Patata Roppongi 1F
Minato-ku, Tokyo
TEL：03-3401-3521　
東京都港区六本木6-8-14 Patata六本木1F

A former Japan Barista Champion and WBC runner-up is here. And that is why it is utterly shocking how mediocre and sloppy the espresso is. Del Sole is more restaurant than cafe. Its aim seems to be churning through food service as quickly as possible (with uninspired food--a flaccid pizza here, a lifeless and stingy smoked salmon sandwich there), with pulls of espresso as mere afterthoughts. Mine was not ground to order and seemed to have been sitting for a minute or so before being served. A monumental disappointment.

2008-04-03T17:26:00.017+09:00

Ivan Ramen
>>MAP

3-24-7 Minami-karasuyama Setagaya-ku
TEL: 03-6750-5540
東京都世田谷区南烏山3-24-7
I didn’t want to like this place. Ivan, a transplanted New Yorker, has received tons of media coverage for his gaijin-in-Japan success story. I must admit, it’s pretty ballsy: foreigner comes to Japan and opens his own ramen shop. Ramen! There’s nothing more revered in this country than ramen (and don’t even attempt to argue that soba garners as much adoration, obsessiveness, blog-time, etc.). But Ivan’s ramen is transcendent. The pork is thickly-sliced and succulent. The noodles have just the right toughness and are made in a room above the restaurant. The broth is not overly salty or oily. Now if he can just get his waits down to a reasonable time (I waited one hour in line).

2008-03-27T11:02:00.017+09:00

Café Use
>>MAP

Kitazawa 3-31-3 Setagaya-ku
TEL: 03-3466-5058
東京都世田谷区北沢3-31-3
A husband-and-wife operation, this Shimo-kitazawa café has fascinating nooks and crannies—even a private room that seats three. The coffee is of the drip variety, ground to order, and served in 1940s-era Jadeite Green Fire King Oven Ware cups (in keeping with other antiques in the shop). It’s consistently excellent. The wife bakes the café’s desserts (the cheesecake is particularly good). Dimly-lit Coleman lanterns sit above the counter (see picture). The husband painstakingly removed the guts from each lantern and wired them with electric bulbs. A very special café.

2008-03-21T14:44:00.010+09:00

Another Door Café
>>MAP

2-10-7 Nishi-Ebisu, 2F
TEL: 03-3462-2483
東京都渋谷区西恵比寿2-10-7
You’ll either love this place or find it too precious for its own good. The owner, a gravely serious man who spent 20-minutes rearranging a rug and two chairs while I watched in amusement, clearly has a specific aesthetic. I won’t go into detail, but urge you to visit his website for an idea (linked above). Unfortunately, he’s using Lavazza pods and the espresso suffers considerably as a result. His wine collection is perhaps more enlightened.

2008-03-21T12:12:00.017+09:00

Dexee Diner
>>MAP

Hiroo 1-1-39, Ebisu Prime Square Tower
TEL: 03-5464-3721
東京都渋谷区広尾1-1-39

プライムスクウェアタワー1F　
Dexee has spots all around Tokyo but the Ebisu location is especially worth a visit (for the food and not the espresso). The expansive menu is a great mix of westernized Japanese like hamburg steak and American standards like pancakes and French toast. Espresso is not the focus here and mine poignantly brought back my first days on the machine trying to get just one shot right.

2008-03-21T11:52:00.009+09:00

Le Parc Ebisu
>>MAP

1-19-6 Nishi-Ebisu
TEL: 03-3780-5050
東京都渋谷区恵比寿西1-19-6

Located in what was a fine-dining French restaurant, Le Parc serves superior dim sum in an elegant setting at prices that range from 500 yen to 2500 yen a dish. Nobody’s bumping your elbows with a dim-sum cart here. The place has a particularly deft hand with greens (see the pea shoots pictured).

2008-03-14T16:55:00.019+09:00

Caffe Fresco
>>MAP

3-31-1 Minami-Asagaya
Suginami-ku
TEL: 03-5397-6267
東京都杉並区浅谷南3-31-1
The first thing one notices upon entry to this six-year old café located on a side-street off the famous tree-lined Nakasugi-dōri in Asagaya is the fire-engine yellow La Marzocco FB/70. The owner pulls great shots and appears to be on the never-ending quest to get better. Excellent espresso.

Updated: August 6, 2009

2007-11-30T12:39:00.012+09:00

Café Cowra
>>MAP

5-15-15 Ebara, Shinagawa-ku
TEL: 03-3782-2411
東京都品川区荏原5−15−15
西小山サマリヤマンション1F
Blond wood is everywhere at this Nordic Nishi-koyama café. Lovely owners preside over an accomplished operation that always seems to be exhibiting compelling art by local artists. Wine and coffee are focal points (with very good pulls of espresso), but that’s not to say that Cowra doesn’t succeed at putting out some very fine pastas (homemade tomato sauce and spinach) and craft desserts (pound cake with sugared kiwi is pictured).

2007-10-23T19:23:00.007+09:00

Cafe Nico
>>MAP

5-18-16 Yakumo-Meguro
(adjoining Komazawa Park)
TEL: 03-3717-6677
東京都目黒区八雲5-18-16

Feel the LOHAS love at this hipper-than-thou café adjoining Komazawa Park. The espresso’s sh*t (see picture for Nico's perpetuation of bad espresso), but what it lacks in espresso prowess is more than made up for by location and atmosphere.

2007-10-15T16:17:00.004+09:00

le Café Mamie
>>MAP

5-1-11 Shimomeguro, Meguro-ku
TEL: 03-3716-1095
目黒区下目黒5-1-11
A true touch of Paris on busy Meguro Avenue. The café au lait is served in a bowl. Mamie’s homemade cakes, tarts and cookies are exceptional. I would make this a regular stop if Meguro Dori wasn’t the noisy superhighway that it is.

2007-10-15T14:42:00.006+09:00

Eau Café
>>MAP

18-7 Daikanyama Daikanyama-suehiro Bldg. 3F, Shibuya-ku
TEL: 03-5728-2839
渋谷区代官山町18-7 代官山末廣ビル3F
An extremely atmospheric and comfortable café where coffee takes a backseat to food. There are now eight cafes from this restaurant group, including one in Shonan and another in Naka-Meguro (Huit). Espresso is serviceable here. However, both the espresso machine and grinder are hidden from view and I failed to hear the requisite sounds of grinding and dosing. I have to hand it to my server, though: she sent back the first pull of espresso because it lacked crema.

2007-10-12T18:20:00.011+09:00

Caffé Cuore
>>MAP

18-8 Daikanyama, Shibuya-ku
TEL: 03-3464-6740
東京都渋谷区代官山町18-8 2F
UPDATE: THIS CAFE IS CLOSED. If you can put aside the antiseptic feel of this second-floor café in Daikanyama, there is much to recommend here in terms of espresso. The first thing that catches the eye when you enter (other than the grand piano) is a gorgeous copper Elektra espresso machine. Your hunch is right--the owner is serious about his espresso and his pours are everything espresso should be: mysterious, multi-faceted, complex, and silky.

2007-10-12T18:01:00.007+09:00

Asuka Café
>>MAP

12-34 Sarugakucho, Shibuya-ku
TEL: 03-3464-0125
東京都渋谷区猿楽町12-34
UPDATE: THIS CAFE IS CLOSED. Opened in July 2007, this cafe is devoted to organics--from food to coffee. Unfortunately, that laudable aim coupled with a gorgeous La Marzocca couldn't save my espresso from a severe case of over-extraction.

2007-10-12T15:03:00.003+09:00

Coffee Roast Ookayama
>>MAP

1-64-4 Kita-senzoku, Ota-ku
TEL: 03-5731-6774
大田区北千束1-64-4
The latest shop from a well-established roaster/importer. It's strictly beans only (no drink service), although the attendant will filter a cup while you wait for your order. If you haven't experienced gas-fired roasting before, this shop is a good place to start. Be forewarned: espresso roasts tend to be on the very dark side (read: burned).

2007-08-27T15:46:00.006+09:00

cafe de Naniwaya
>>MAP

1-7-5 Asakusa, Taito-ku, Tokyo
TEL: 03-5828-8988
東京都台東区浅草1-7-5
A one-man operation in the back streets of Asakusa, Naniwaya appears to have been around for ages. Actually, it opened in December 2006 and is presided over by a still-young but exacting coffee wizard. The master employs the drip method and a single cup of coffee takes five minutes or more to prepare (the beans are ground to order, the water’s temperature is taken, the first drips of water are laid gently, etc.). Sit at the counter to watch coffee science in action. In the mood for sweets? Naniwaya’s coffee jelly puts Jello-O to shame.

2007-08-23T11:42:00.005+09:00

Zoka
>>MAP

3-2-2 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo
TEL: 03-3560-7251
東京都港区赤坂3-2-2 アマンド赤坂ビル
[UPDATE: This Zoka location is permanently closed for business.]A little bit like putting Starbucks up on your blog, but Zoka’s attention to coffee and barista training far exceed anything “Staba” is doing. It's also probably the only place to try a cup of coffee produced by a Clover (a coffee system that brews each cup to order) (see picture).

2007-08-23T11:03:00.006+09:00

Ben's Café
>>MAP

1-29-21 Takadanobaba
Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo
TEL: 03-3202-2445
新宿区高田馬場1-29-21
[UPDATE: Ben's is permanently closed for business. It will be missed!] Ben’s bills itself as Tokyo’s only New-York style café. I’ve had some uneven pulls of espresso here, but, all-in-all, Ben’s is truly a community café (poetry readings, open mic, go lessons, etc.) that gets a wonderfully eclectic mix of people in the door. The hummus plate will transport you home. Free Internet and Wi-Fi too (a rarity in Tokyo).

2007-08-21T11:06:00.004+09:00

LoSpazio
>>MAP

3-3-5 Takaban, Meguro-ku, Tokyo
(Toyoko Line Gakugeidaigaku Station)
TEL: 03-5722-6799
東京都目黒区鷹番3-3-5
東急東横線学芸大学駅東口下車徒歩１分
One of Tokyo’s few true Italian espresso bars (also see Primoordine) where customers can stand at the marble counter and down a quick shot. LoSpazio even offers barista training seminars (in Japanese).

2007-08-20T17:40:00.016+09:00

Paul Bassett

>>MAP

1-26-2 Nishi-Shinjuku

Shinjuku Nomura Bldg. B1

TEL: 03-5324-5090

東京都新宿区西新宿1-26-2 新宿野村ビルB1

WBC 2003 Champion Bassett now only has a shop in Shinjuku (Ginza and Jiyugaoka shops have closed and the picture at left was taken at the Jiyugaoka store). One shot of espresso tops out at 500 yen but you can be assured that each barista has impeccable form.

Updated: August 6, 2009

2007-08-16T14:31:00.004+09:00

Table d’Hote (French-Japanese)
>>MAP

9-18 Hachiyama-cho, Shibuya-ku
TEL: 03-3464-1776
渋谷区鉢山町9-18
Open three days a week (Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays), this special-occasion restaurant is the meticulous child of chef-owner Kei, who trained in France. Reservations are mandatory and there is no menu—only the chef’s course at slightly over 5,000 yen. The restaurant is located in Kei’s home. Highly recommended. Caution: pods are used for espresso service.

2007-08-16T12:36:00.003+09:00

Hainan Jeefan Shokudo (Chinese)
>>MAP

Roppongi 6-11-16
Tel: 03-5474-3200
港区六本木6-11-16
Impossibly tender Singaporean Hainan chicken on jasmine rice.

2007-08-16T11:24:00.005+09:00

mois café
>>MAP

Kitazawa 2-21-26 Setagaya, Tokyo
TEL: 03-3421-1844
東京都世田谷区北沢2-21-26
A quaint café in a two-story house. Difficult to find but worth the search.

2007-08-16T10:44:00.003+09:00

Azabu Haus (Italian-Japanese)
>>MAP

2-7-14 Azabu-juban, azabu275
Minato-ku, Tokyo
TEL: 03-5439-6671
東京都港区麻布十番2-7-14 azabu275
Elegant gem in the back streets of Azubu-juban serving Italian-Japanese hybrid fare. Typically open until 5:00 a.m. or 6:00 a.m.

2007-08-14T17:55:00.019+09:00

Bar Alimentari Daniela
>>MAP

5-16-23 Daizawa, Setagaya-ku
TEL：03-3487-6086
世田谷区代沢 5-16-23
This is an unassuming Italian place serving paninis, pastas and espresso. Its sister restaurant, Il Nido, is now closed permanently but was across the street and rumored to have been spectacular. The single espresso (see picture) was too long for my taste and overextracted. The mortadella sandwich (also pictured) hit the spot.

2007-08-14T17:27:00.003+09:00

Manuel Casa de Fado (Portuguese)
>>MAP

11-7 Rokuban-cho, AKUSU atrium B1
Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo
TEL: 03-5276-2432　

東京都千代田区六番町11-７　アークス・アトリウムB１
A hidden gem in the back streets near Yotsuya Station. There's a monthly musical performance. Very solid execution, wonderful homemade bread, and what is probably Tokyo's only all-Portuguese wine list.

2007-08-14T17:16:00.003+09:00

David's Deli (Israeli)
>>MAP

5-13-13 Mita, Minato-ku
Shirokane-takanawa
Tel: 03-5441-1211
港区三田５丁目13-13
Best homemade pita bread ("pita pan") in Tokyo. Another must try is the spinach bureka (cheese bureka is pictured).

2007-08-14T16:44:00.003+09:00

Elio (Italian)
>>MAP

Kojimachi 2-5-2
TEL: 03-3239-6771
東京都千代田区麹町 2-5-2
Favorite of the Italian ambassador. Dinner pricey at Y8,000-15,000 per person. Go for lunch. Quite the high-powered gaijin scene.

2007-08-14T16:22:00.003+09:00

Giang's (Vietnamese)
>>MAP

Kurokawa Bldg. 3F
Tamagawa 3-5-7
TEL: 03-3700-2475
東京都世田谷区玉川 3-5-7黒川ビル３Ｆ
Very fine pho if not overpriced. Rice flour omelet was greasy. Not a destination restaurant but if you're in Nikotama, it's a must visit.

2007-08-14T15:46:00.004+09:00

Savoy (Pizza)
>>MAP

Moto Azabu 3-10-1, 2F
Tel: 03-5770-7899
元麻布３丁目１０－1
Savoy consistently turns out some of the better pizza in Tokyo. Be prepared for serious attitude, though. The staff is not afraid to tell you to leave when you're done eating (due to the popularity of the place). If you order espresso, beg off the unsolicited addition of sugar. Nice grappa list. Reservations are strongly recommended as there are only 8 seats or so. Open until 4:00 a.m. most nights.

2007-08-13T17:14:00.006+09:00

Café Vostok
>>MAP

6-20-1 Okusawa, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo
TEL: 03-6379-8155
東京都世田谷区奥沢6-20-1 ユタカフォレスト
UPDATE: THIS CAFE IS CLOSED. Quirky café and restaurant located in an antique store or vice versa. The coffee is serviceable but the real attractions are the pirozhki (a Russian meat-stuffed bun like a pierogie) and the borscht. Both are homemade and wonderful.

2007-08-13T16:51:00.005+09:00

Tsuzuri
>>MAP

1-9-3 Yurakucho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo
Nippon Broadcasting System Bldg., B1
TEL: 03-3286-0150
東京都千代田区有楽町1-9-3 糖業会館
ニッポン放送本社ビルB1
Hidden in the basement of a nondescript office building, this bar never ceases to impress me. Its design is strikingly beautiful and the private rooms ooze comfort. The food too is elegant and quite fine although it's better to stick with the Japanese offerings rather than pizza or pasta.

2007-08-13T16:06:00.004+09:00

Cafe One
>>MAP

Jiyugaoka 1-31-8, Ishikawa Bldg. 2F
目黒区自由が丘1-31-8 石川ビル２階
Just the type of cozy café Jiyugaoka needs. It’s a tad pricey but the owner knows his coffee.

2007-08-13T15:00:00.003+09:00

Yanaka Coffee
>>MAP

3-25-6 Musashi-koyama, Tokyo
東京都品川区小山３－２５－６
Artisan shop where beans are roasted to order. Numerous locations in Tokyo.

2007-08-13T14:19:00.016+09:00

macchinesti
>>MAP

5-15-14 Minami-Azabu
TEL：03-5739-1852
東京都港区南麻布5-15-14
UPDATE: THIS CAFE IS CLOSED. If you're serious about espresso, macchinesti should be on your hit list in Tokyo. [Pictures are from the Azabu-Juban location, now closed. The address above applies to the Hiroo location.]

Updated: January 28, 2010