Tokyo 東京 Espresso エスプレッソ

Cafe Nico >>MAP 5-18-16 Yakumo-Meguro (adjoining Komazawa Park) TEL: 03-3717-6677 東京都目黒区八雲 5-18-16 Feel the LOHAS love at this hipper-than-thou café adjoining Komazawa Park. The espresso’s sh*t (see picture for Nico's perpetuation of bad espresso), but what it lacks in espresso prowess is more than made up for by location and atmosphere.

le Café Mamie >>MAP 5-1-11 Shimomeguro, Meguro-ku TEL: 03-3716-1095 目黒区下目黒 5-1-11 A true touch of Paris on busy Meguro Avenue. The café au lait is served in a bowl. Mamie’s homemade cakes, tarts and cookies are exceptional. I would make this a regular stop if Meguro Dori wasn’t the noisy superhighway that it is.

Eau Café >>MAP 18-7 Daikanyama Daikanyama-suehiro Bldg. 3F, Shibuya-ku TEL: 03-5728-2839 渋谷区代官山町 18-7 代官山末廣ビル 3F An extremely atmospheric and comfortable café where coffee takes a backseat to food. There are now eight cafes from this restaurant group, including one in Shonan and another in Naka-Meguro (Huit). Espresso is serviceable here. However, both the espresso machine and grinder are hidden from view and I failed to hear the requisite sounds of grinding and dosing. I have to hand it to my server, though: she sent back the first pull of espresso because it lacked crema.

Caffé Cuore >>MAP 18-8 Daikanyama, Shibuya-ku TEL: 03-3464-6740 東京都渋谷区代官山町 18-8 2F UPDATE: THIS CAFE IS CLOSED . If you can put aside the antiseptic feel of this second-floor café in Daikanyama, there is much to recommend here in terms of espresso. The first thing that catches the eye when you enter (other than the grand piano) is a gorgeous copper Elektra espresso machine. Your hunch is right--the owner is serious about his espresso and his pours are everything espresso should be: mysterious, multi-faceted, complex, and silky.

Asuka Café >>MAP 12-34 Sarugakucho, Shibuya-ku TEL: 03-3464-0125 東京都渋谷区猿楽町 12-34 UPDATE: THIS CAFE IS CLOSED . Opened in July 2007, this cafe is devoted to organics--from food to coffee. Unfortunately, that laudable aim coupled with a gorgeous La Marzocca couldn't save my espresso from a severe case of over-extraction.

Coffee Roast Ookayama >>MAP 1-64-4 Kita-senzoku, Ota-ku TEL: 03-5731-6774 大田区北千束 1-64-4 The latest shop from a well-established roaster/importer. It's strictly beans only (no drink service), although the attendant will filter a cup while you wait for your order. If you haven't experienced gas-fired roasting before, this shop is a good place to start. Be forewarned: espresso roasts tend to be on the very dark side (read: burned).

cafe de Naniwaya >>MAP 1-7-5 Asakusa, Taito-ku, Tokyo TEL: 03-5828-8988 東京都台東区浅草 1-7-5 A one-man operation in the back streets of Asakusa, Naniwaya appears to have been around for ages. Actually, it opened in December 2006 and is presided over by a still-young but exacting coffee wizard. The master employs the drip method and a single cup of coffee takes five minutes or more to prepare (the beans are ground to order, the water’s temperature is taken, the first drips of water are laid gently, etc.). Sit at the counter to watch coffee science in action. In the mood for sweets? Naniwaya’s coffee jelly puts Jello-O to shame.